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Table of Contents:
Equipment:
Q. Do I need to use a commercial pattern?
Q. I'm looking for a good sewing machine, any
recommendations?
Q. I'm thinking of getting a serger. What
should I look for?
Q. Do you need a serger to make diapers?
Fabrics:
Q. Where can I get good quality diaper
flannel?
Q. Can I use recycled materials to make
diapers?
Q. What other materials can I use for making
diapers?
Q. Where do you buy your fabrics? I read
someone's comments somewhere
about "super flannel" but where do you get it?
Q. What kind of fleece and what weight
works well for covers?
Q. Are there places to buy fabric
on-line?
Q. What's the best kind of elastic to
use?
Q. How do you put elastic on a diaper
without having to measure it?
Q. How can I put elastic in a one-layer
fleece cover?
Q.
What kind of materials and how many layers
should I use in the soaker layer?
Closures:
Q. Where can I get Aplix?
Q. More questions on Aplix:
Q. What's the difference between Aplix
400 and Aplix 800?
Q. Where can I get the plastic snaps?
Q. Do I need to use a commercial pattern?
A No! Although sometimes it can be
helpful to use a commercial pattern,
you can either just
"wing it" using the dimensions from Debi's page as a
guide,
or you can trace a favorite cloth or disposable diaper
that fits well.
Back
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Q. I'm looking for a good sewing
machine, any recommendations?
A. Nine years ago I got an
"elnita" for less than $300. Of course, prices and
models may have changed since then, but I've loved my little elna
all this
time, and I've had very few problems. In fact, the only troubles
I've had
have cropped up in the last few months when I'm using it a LOT,
and have
been "user induced"--that is, I haven't cleaned it
enough, or using problem
thread, that sort of thing. It's a simple little thing, but it
has all the
zigzag stitches, buttonholes, and all that I've needed up til
now. Now,
nine years later, I'm dreaming of fancy stitches, etc, but I'm
still doing
quite fine with my Elnita. :)
A. I've only heard good things about Elnas, too.
Good luck!
Valerie
A. I also had a Kenmore and hated
it. It could never
zigzag. I took it back and got another and had the
same problem. I saved up and finally got a great
Elna.
Kimi
A. i have the janome L344 and LOVE
it. it was about $250, and i am finding it
does more and more neat stuff.
-sarah
A. LOL! thats my big problem with
Kenmore too, I had the entire tension knob
come flying off at me one night while sewing, I hadn't TOUCHED
it, they
accused me of messing with it, but put it back together and that
thing never
did work right after that. It was a first for me, but I went out
and bought
another one, <stupid> and I regret it.
I also have a singer merritt machine, that I love, it has the
drop in disks
for fancy stitches, it was given to me, and it is probably a good
15-20 yrs
old, but its WONDERFUL! I also have a singer serger that is about
15 yrs
old, that I love dearly also. neither of those have given me any
problems
considering the use I give them, and never geting them serviced,
I can't say
enough good about singer, the only bad thing is their stores for
servicing
and general customer service usually bite big time.
I've heard good things about the Brother that walmart sells for
about $150,
might try that one.
jeanette
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Q. I'm thinking of getting a serger. What
should I look for?
A. I would definitely recommend a
good machine, that means European or
Japanese to me. The number one machine that I'm hearing about
lately
is the Janome (Juh/no/me) which is also the New Home. It is made
all
in one place by its own company, nothing contracted out. I have
an
Elna myself that I simply love. Bernina, Pfaff, Viking, I think
rate
about the same as Elna. I suggest you go to a shop or two or
three in
your area and try them out and see which one feels best to you.
Once
you know which model, search around for the best deal. Someone on
this
list, I can't remember who, got hers off the internet. I would
recommend a machine that has an overlock stitch and three-step
zig zag.
Good luck shopping!
Kimi
A. There are so many sergers out
there that it's hard to
know any more. I can recommend Elna just from
personal experience. Mine is a basic model, Pro 4
Lock, no computer and it's 12 years old and has NEVER
given me trouble and I've sewn everything on it!
What I like about it is:
It's easy to thread.
Has a full 1/4" seam.
Durable machine.
User friendly.
Easy to clean and maintain.
Great performance record.
Now, I am following with great interest the troubles
of sergers that have recently come up on this list.
Take down brand names when you hear about problems and
avoid those machines.
I would recommend that you go the several dealers in
your area and let them show you all the different
models. Steer clear of department store brands. At
the dealer, don't let them trash one brand just to
build their brand up. Each brand has pros and cons
and the top brands are all very similar. I would
compare Janome (NewHome), Elna, Viking, Phaff. As I
have heard from many sources, the Janome is the best
out there right now in sewing machines because of the
company's structure and manufacturing methods. I
haven't looked at any of their sergers myself because
I am so happy with mine, though.
As for a used one. Just make sure that it has a
warranty and sew like crazy with it during the
warranty time, it should be clean and recently
over-hauled before being put up for sale. If
something is going to go wrong, it will do so within a
short period of time, not counting normal wear and
tear. You may be able to get a good deal on a used
one because many sewers get one and don't use it
because they are intimidated by it or just don't
really sew much and got tired of it taking up space.
Little old ladies sometimes get them and then realize
they don't want it.
Good luck.
===
Kimi
A. Well, I just got the Elna 704 dex
Plus. I love it so far. I think the
tension problem I'm having is just my inexperience. It's sooooo
easy to
thread and has a lot of stitches. My Elna is one of the only
sergers out
there that will do the coverhem stitch without having to replace
the plate
or foot. That's why I got it.
Debi
A. It really all depends on a)what
you are planning to do with your serger, and
b) what your irritation threshold is.
I have a mid-range Babylock, and it's excellent for what I want -
mostly
garmnet construction, and I also wanted to be able to do a rolled
hem and
flatlock. It's manually threaded, but easy enough to thread that
I don't
consider it a major hassle - it takes me less time to thread from
scratch
than to tie on.
When I was buying, the dealer showed me the Babylock Imagine,
which had
these cool air-jet threading things and automatic tension
settings, etc. but
she pointed out that really, the main difference was that it was
easier to
use, but didn't do any more stitches or have a better stitch
quality than
the less-frills model I bought did.
I personally like doing things manually - I don't mind threading
it myself,
or playing with the tensions myself, so for me the extra $$$
would not be
worth it for convenience - but for others, it may be!
I would think being able to do knits and wovens would be pretty
important,
and having a differential feed is pretty nice to help control
stretching and
waviness in sewing knits.
Here's a pretty good link with some info on what to think about
when looking
for a serger (you may have to cut and paste, it's pretty long):
http://www.nancysnotions.com/library/WhichSerger.asp?id=99072250206152712210
Sophie
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Q. Do you need a serger to make diapers?
A. No you don't need a serger. It
takes more time to sew a diaper without one,
but you don't need one. It looks best if you sew the diaper right
sides
together and then turn it and topstitch. On the soaker I used to
do a
straight stitch all the way around and then a zig zag all the way
around.
Very time consuming!
Debi
A. not at all! some people feel the
turned dipes are nicest of all (method
shown on debi's "dipe with aplix" page). even with just
a sewing machine
you can use an overedge stitch if you don't want to turn them.
mine look
really lousy that way, <SNIP> as for the soaker pad, zig
zag is fine,
pinions seem to differ on how tight.
Sophie
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Q. Where can I get good quality diaper
flannel?
A. I saw that Elizabeth Lee was
advertising diaper quality flannel. I don't
know the weight or price and was thinking of checking into it
myself. I
think they only have white.
Here's the URL: http://www.elizabethlee.com/index.htm
Hope this helps!
Suzanne (mommy to Jenna)
- Flannel... an someone help me out with
the
> various weights of flannel.
I would not go less than 8oz.
=====
Kimi
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Q. Can I use recycled materials to make
diapers?
A. Sometimes the old receiving
blankets are a better quality than the stuff you
find in the stores. I have a receiving blanket I picked up for
.50 cents
that is really thick and soft.
Debi
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Q. What other materials can I use for making
diapers?
A. Everything I've felt recently
that my mom called flannelette was
appropriate for diapers. :) For any fabric you'd like to try for
diapers,
ask this: Is it 100% cotton? (or nearly so) Is it absorbent
enough for
me to waste my time on it? Will it hold up to every-other-day
washings in
hot water? If you can answer yes, then give it a try. Oh, and
also ask:
Will it bleed its colours all over my other diapers? Obviously,
if that's
a yes, don't use it. :)
Valerie
A. I've heard that birdseye if very
durable; but you would have to use several
layers and/or some terry or something with it to get some
absorbency. I
use flannel and terry for my diapers; mainly because it's readily
available
in different colors/prints.
Blessings, Traci
- My ultimate absorbent diaper is one I
made with Birdseye. It's only 2 full
layers of Birdseye and about 5 layers of stretch terry in
the soaker. That's
it. Birdseye seems to get more absorbent the more you
wash it. It's
wonderful stuff!
Debi
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Q. Where do you buy your fabrics? I read
someone's comments somewhere
about "super flannel" but where do you get it?
A. Wal-Mart. It comes in white, yellow, pink, blue and
red.
Debi
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Q. What kind of fleece and what weight works
well for covers?
A. If you use Malden Mills fleece I
use 200 for day and 300 for night. They also
have windblock fleece which I use day or night.
Heather
A. Check this url:
http://www.escribe.com/children/clothdiaper/index.html?mID=5552
Carla
A. The 200 stuff is definitely WAY
thick. I would never double the 200 stuff.
There is really no need to. It is also not as soft feeling as the
cheaper
stuff. It is squishy soft, but not buttery soft. I'd rather buy
the
cheaper fleece and double it than use the other, but the 200 sure
is nice
for a 1-layer nighttime cover.
~*~*~
Jennifer S.
A. The 200 wt is what we use for day
and the 300 wt for night.
I have NEVER had a leak with the 300 wt... it doesn't even seem
to get damp!
It is a bit bulkier, but IMO well worth it. Sometimes Reid wears
the soaker
I made as pants all by themselves (hence the name "Parka
Pant" *S*) during
the day if I am using that one.
The 200 wt IMO is for people that are wanting to change their
babies
*whenever* they are wet, even if it is not a really sopping wet
diaper. IE
not for those that want to get all the mileage they can out of a
dipe. I
think that it is awesome as I can tell when he wets as it lets
out steam and
feels warm... I can tell right away when he goes, but have only
had an
actual leak when he was in the johnny jump up (IE compressing the
loft of
the fleece). I guess technically from that description it is good
for
people that push the mileage too... but I don't like *knowing*
that there is
a wet dipe in there without changing pronto. I can't tell with
the 300
wt... can with the 200 wt although like I said it is not a leak,
but more of
a "heat" escaping.
Blue skies,
elke
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Q. Are there places to buy fabric on-line?
A. Well, there is this one: http://www.bargainfabric.com/ and
http://www.polartec.com/ also
http://www.netins.net/showcase/bnbfabric/index.html
Amy Willoughby
A. a lot of people also like to shop
on-line, try phoenix fabrics for a start,
http://st6.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/
Sophie
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Q. What's the best kind of elastic to use?
A. I use 1/4" swimwear elastic.
Amy
A. Motherease
uses clear elastic in their dipes. I've
not heard of those dipes losing their elastic's
recovery.
I use swimwear elastic myself and that stuff can last.
Kimi
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Q. How do you put elastic on a
diaper without having to measure it?
A. Mark where you want the elastic
to start and stop. Tack it down at the
start and then sew with a smallish zig-zag (one zig, one zag).
Pull it
tight and sew until you get to the second mark. Tack it down and
take out
of the machine. Cut the elastic at this point. No waste!
Jennifer S. ~ Mom-o to: Joshua, Molly and Joseph.
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Q. How can I put elastic in a one-layer
fleece cover?
A. I make one-layer covers. I sew
the 1/4-inch elastic about 1/4 inch from
the edge. Then I fold the fleece over so the elastic is now
covered and
then zig-zag it closed. Makes sort of a casing but covers the
elastic with
fleece. If your fabric is cut nice and straight (no bumpy edges)
it makes
a nice clean-looking "casing."
Jennifer S. ~ Mom-o to: Joshua, Molly and Joseph.
A. I've only made single layer
covers so far. What I did was to put a
contrasting color on the tabs and front panels for reinforcement
(don't know
if that's actually necessary - probably not). I sewed the tabs
and front
panels on, turned them and made casings for the elastic along the
legs and
back with the seam allowance. This did mean that the casing was
sewn on the
*outside* of the cover, which didn't bother me since I was making
them for
myself, and anyway I figured the smoothest side was towards the
baby's skin.
Sophie
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Q. What kind of materials and how many layers
should I use in the soaker layer?
A. I started with 3 flannel and 2
terry, but that extra flannel layer was
getting annoying. I couldn't cut things in even numbers, and even
that one
little extra layer made it harder to sew. So I took it out and
now do 2
flannel/2 terry. Works like a charm!
Jennifer S.
A. I prefer 3 full flannel bodies and 5 to
6 layers of stretch (knit) terry
for the soaker
Debi
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Q. Where can I get Aplix?
A. << You can get it from
Jennifer Dehart. Her url address is:
http://home.att.net/~tjatsdehart/Aplix.html
She's super fast at shipping so you won't have
to wait too long =) >>
she was great to work with. i need to get more from her!
Sarah, mom to Hanna 5-16-95 and Faith 2-21-99.
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Q. More questions on Aplix:
A. -Do you need a special needle to sew it on?
Another no here, go slow though.
-What is the difference between the 400 and 800?
The 800 is loops (very soft, last 10,000 pulls, doesn't stick as
well as
400), the 400 is cut loops(lasts 1,000 pulls, tends to pill
though doesn't
really affect sticking just appearance)
-What is the ratio of hook to loop you need? (assuming a strip
across the
front and on the wings and maybe something to keep it closed
during washing)
I use about 3 loop per 1 hook also.
- And for those of you who use it how do you keep it from
destroying
everything in the wash with it?
Attach extra loop next to the hook part to fold over the hook
part during
laundering.
Jennifer D.
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Q. What's the difference between Aplix 400
and Aplix 800?
What kind of width do I want for a diaper?
A. The Aplix 400 has cut loops. It
is supposed to last up to 1,000 pulls. The
loops are not rough, but not soft either. It attaches very well.
The loops
tend to pill after time. This does not affect stickyness.
The Aplix 800 has continuous loops. It is supposed to last up to
10,000
pulls. The loops are soft. It attaches well, but not as well as
the 400.
This doesn't pill. I have also seen diapers with the 800 wear out
before
the Aplix.
The loop part is the soft part of the Aplix that is generally on
the front
of a diaper or cover. The hook is the scratchy part generally on
the wings.
I think that the width is a preference thing. I like the 1"
for NB stuff.
The 1.5" anything else. The 2" is great for medium
diapers and up and also
for covers. This is just my experience, YMMV.
Jennifer D.
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Q. Where can I get the plastic snaps?
A. (The plastic snaps like you see
on many diapers aren't available at your local
fabric store. They
require a special snap setter and must be ordered. Info below)
Fastener Supply 415-392-6968
The press is the AE press and you get it
from Fastener Supply. Their
number is: 1800 224 6609 Ask for Oscar.
I cancelled my order from them since I found (thanks Suzanne!) a
used
one for like 60 dollars cheaper (including shipping) But they
mistakenly sent it to me COD anyway. The total I had with
shipping
from CA to WI was 140.00 egads..so glad I was able to get the
used
one for a whopping 82.00 with shipping!
Snaps and dies you get from Universal fasteners. Ask for Jerry,
562 921 1440
(does anyone else have the item numbers on the snaps? I dont have
my
info very handy)
You'll need three dies for each of the snap parts (cap, socket,
stud)
Tell jerry what the item number is on the snaps and he'll send
you
the correct dies.
If you look around for another press other than the one at
Fastener
Supply, just make sure that the press can fit a 3/8 inch die
(This is
information Jerry told me to look for in a press)
My order from Universal for my dies and about 6 bags of snap
parts
came to 225.00 with shipping...much better than I was
anticipating :)
Back on the press thing...I know Fastener Supply has them in
stock
again since they screwed up and sent me one so you might want to
call
this week before this new stock is all gone. Oscar told me they
go
fast once he has them in.
Good Luck!
Carla
<< (does anyone else have the item
numbers on the snaps? I dont have
> my
> info very handy) >>
> I am still looking for the item numbers on these so I can
order
> them... anyone?
>
> Sacha
Here ya go Sacha..
Universal: K49-839 (socket)
562-921-1440 K50-839 (stud)
K53-839 (bigger cap)
K43 (smaller cap)
dies for all of the above
A. Got my plastic snap press from
Fastener-Supply, $115, and my dies and snaps
at Universal Fasteners (you need 3 dies, at $40 each), snap parts
are around
$15 for a bag of 1000 parts (two parts make 1/2 snap, stud or
socket).
Sooooo, the initial investment is A LOT, but the snaps themselves
are only a
couple cents each, so in the long run . . . if you're using a lot
of them
(for WAHM dipes, for example), it *might* end up being economical
- but you
have to make a lot of dipes! :-)
Jennifer Reed,
The numbers I have are Fastener Supply
(800) 224-6609, and Universal
Fasteners (562) 921-1440.
Jennifer Reed
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