Everyday many of the same questions are posted on the Sew Your Own Diapers e-mail list. These are just a few of the questions posted.
A big huge thanks to Sophie, a member of the Sew Your Own Diapers e-mail list, for creating this FAQ page!!
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Equipment: Q. Do I need to use a commercial pattern? Q. Q. I’m thinking of getting a serger. What Q. Do you need a serger to make diapers? Fabrics: Q. Where can I get good quality diaper Q. Can I use recycled materials to make Q. What other materials can I use for making Q. Where do you buy your fabrics? I read about “super flannel” but where do you get it? Q. What kind of fleece and what weight Q. Are there places to buy fabric Q. What’s the best kind of elastic to Q. How do you put elastic on a diaper Q. How can I put elastic in a one-layer
Closures: Q. What’s the difference between Aplix Q. Where can I get the plastic snaps?
Q. Do I need to use a commercial pattern? A No! you can either just or you can trace a favorite cloth or disposable diaper Q. I’m looking for a good sewing A. models may have changed since then, but I’ve loved my little elna time, and I’ve had very few problems. In fact, the only troubles have cropped up in the last few months when I’m using it a LOT, been “user induced”–that is, I haven’t cleaned it thread, that sort of thing. It’s a simple little thing, but it zigzag stitches, buttonholes, and all that I’ve needed up til nine years later, I’m dreaming of fancy stitches, etc, but I’m quite fine with my Elnita. A. I’ve only heard good things about Elnas, too. Good luck! Valerie A. I zigzag. I took it back and got another and had the same problem. I saved up and finally got a great Elna. Kimi A. i does more and more neat stuff. -sarah A. LOL! come flying off at me one night while sewing, I hadn’t TOUCHED accused me of messing with it, but put it back together and that did work right after that. It was a first for me, but I went out another one, <stupid> and I regret it. I also have a singer merritt machine, that I love, it has the for fancy stitches, it was given to me, and it is probably a good old, but its WONDERFUL! I also have a singer serger that is about old, that I love dearly also. neither of those have given me any considering the use I give them, and never geting them serviced, enough good about singer, the only bad thing is their stores for and general customer service usually bite big time. I’ve heard good things about the Brother that walmart sells for might try that one. jeanette
Q. I’m thinking of getting a serger. What A. I Japanese to me. The number one machine that I’m hearing about is the Janome (Juh/no/me) which is also the New Home. It is made in one place by its own company, nothing contracted out. I have Elna myself that I simply love. Bernina, Pfaff, Viking, I think about the same as Elna. I suggest you go to a shop or two or your area and try them out and see which one feels best to you. you know which model, search around for the best deal. Someone on list, I can’t remember who, got hers off the internet. I would recommend a machine that has an overlock stitch and three-step Good luck shopping! Kimi A. There know any more. I can recommend Elna just from personal experience. Mine is a basic model, Pro 4 Lock, no computer and it’s 12 years old and has NEVER given me trouble and I’ve sewn everything on it! What I like about it is: It’s easy to thread. Has a full 1/4″ seam. Durable machine. User friendly. Easy to clean and maintain. Great performance record. Now, I am following with great interest the troubles of sergers that have recently come up on this list. Take down brand names when you hear about problems and avoid those machines. I would recommend that you go the several dealers in your area and let them show you all the different models. Steer clear of department store brands. At the dealer, don’t let them trash one brand just to build their brand up. Each brand has pros and cons and the top brands are all very similar. I would compare Janome (NewHome), Elna, Viking, Phaff. As I have heard from many sources, the Janome is the best out there right now in sewing machines because of the company’s structure and manufacturing methods. I haven’t looked at any of their sergers myself because I am so happy with mine, though. As for a used one. Just make sure that it has a warranty and sew like crazy with it during the warranty time, it should be clean and recently over-hauled before being put up for sale. If something is going to go wrong, it will do so within a short period of time, not counting normal wear and tear. You may be able to get a good deal on a used one because many sewers get one and don’t use it because they are intimidated by it or just don’t really sew much and got tired of it taking up space. Little old ladies sometimes get them and then realize they don’t want it. Good luck. === Kimi A. tension problem I’m having is just my inexperience. It’s sooooo thread and has a lot of stitches. My Elna is one of the only there that will do the coverhem stitch without having to replace or foot. That’s why I got it. Debi A. It b) what your irritation threshold is. I have a mid-range Babylock, and it’s excellent for what I want - garmnet construction, and I also wanted to be able to do a rolled flatlock. It’s manually threaded, but easy enough to thread that consider it a major hassle – it takes me less time to thread from than to tie on. When I was buying, the dealer showed me the Babylock Imagine, these cool air-jet threading things and automatic tension she pointed out that really, the main difference was that it was use, but didn’t do any more stitches or have a better stitch the less-frills model I bought did. I personally like doing things manually – I don’t mind threading or playing with the tensions myself, so for me the extra $$$ worth it for convenience – but for others, it may be! I would think being able to do knits and wovens would be pretty and having a differential feed is pretty nice to help control waviness in sewing knits. Here’s a pretty good link with some info on what to think about for a serger (you may have to cut and paste, it’s pretty long): http://www.nancysnotions.com/library/WhichSerger.asp?id=99072250206152712210 Sophie Q. Do you need a serger to make diapers? A. No but you don’t need one. It looks best if you sew the diaper right together and then turn it and topstitch. On the soaker I used to straight stitch all the way around and then a zig zag all the way Very time consuming! Debi A. not shown on debi’s “dipe with aplix” page). even with just you can use an overedge stitch if you don’t want to turn them. really lousy that way, <SNIP> as for the soaker pad, zig pinions seem to differ on how tight. Sophie Q. Where can I get good quality diaper A. I know the weight or price and was thinking of checking into it think they only have white. Here’s the URL: http://www.elizabethlee.com/index.htm Hope this helps! Suzanne (mommy to Jenna)
Q. Can I use recycled materials to make A. find in the stores. I have a receiving blanket I picked up for that is really thick and soft. Debi Q. What other materials can I use for making A. appropriate for diapers. ask this: Is it 100% cotton? (or nearly so) Is it absorbent me to waste my time on it? Will it hold up to every-other-day hot water? If you can answer yes, then give it a try. Oh, and Will it bleed its colours all over my other diapers? Obviously, a yes, don’t use it. Valerie A. layers and/or some terry or something with it to get some use flannel and terry for my diapers; mainly because it’s readily in different colors/prints. Blessings, Traci
Q. Where do you buy your fabrics? I read about “super flannel” but where do you get it? A. Wal-Mart. It comes in white, yellow, pink, blue Debi Q. What kind of fleece and what weight works A. If have windblock fleece which I use day or night. Heather
A. Check this url: http://www.escribe.com/children/clothdiaper/index.html?mID=5552 Carla A. The There is really no need to. It is also not as soft feeling as the stuff. It is squishy soft, but not buttery soft. I’d rather buy cheaper fleece and double it than use the other, but the 200 sure for a 1-layer nighttime cover. ~*~*~ Jennifer S. A. I have NEVER had a leak with the 300 wt… it doesn’t even seem It is a bit bulkier, but IMO well worth it. Sometimes Reid wears I made as pants all by themselves (hence the name “Parka the day if I am using that one. The 200 wt IMO is for people that are wanting to change their *whenever* they are wet, even if it is not a really sopping wet not for those that want to get all the mileage they can out of a think that it is awesome as I can tell when he wets as it lets feels warm… I can tell right away when he goes, but have only actual leak when he was in the johnny jump up (IE compressing the the fleece). I guess technically from that description it is good people that push the mileage too… but I don’t like *knowing* a wet dipe in there without changing pronto. I can’t tell with wt… can with the 200 wt although like I said it is not a leak, a “heat” escaping. Blue skies, elke Q. Are there places to buy fabric on-line? A. http://www.polartec.com/ also http://www.netins.net/showcase/bnbfabric/index.html Amy A. a on-line, try phoenix fabrics for a start, http://st6.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/ Sophie Q. What’s the best kind of elastic to use? A. I Amy A. not heard of those dipes losing their elastic’s recovery. I use swimwear elastic myself and that stuff can last. Kimi Q. How do you put elastic on a A. start and then sew with a smallish zig-zag (one zig, one zag). tight and sew until you get to the second mark. Tack it down and of the machine. Cut the elastic at this point. No waste! Jennifer S. ~ Mom-o to: Joshua, Molly and Joseph. Q. How can I put elastic in a one-layer A. I the edge. Then I fold the fleece over so the elastic is now then zig-zag it closed. Makes sort of a casing but covers the fleece. If your fabric is cut nice and straight (no bumpy edges) a nice clean-looking “casing.” Jennifer S. ~ Mom-o to: Joshua, Molly and Joseph. A. I’ve contrasting color on the tabs and front panels for reinforcement if that’s actually necessary – probably not). I sewed the tabs panels on, turned them and made casings for the elastic along the back with the seam allowance. This did mean that the casing was *outside* of the cover, which didn’t bother me since I was making myself, and anyway I figured the smoothest side was towards the Sophie Q. What kind of materials and how many layers A. I getting annoying. I couldn’t cut things in even numbers, and even little extra layer made it harder to sew. So I took it out and flannel/2 terry. Works like a charm! Jennifer S. A. I prefer for the soaker Debi A. http://home.att.net/~tjatsdehart/Aplix.html to wait too long =) >> she was great to work with. i need to get more from her!
Sarah, mom to Hanna 5-16-95 and Faith 2-21-99. A. Another no here, go slow though. -What is the difference between the 400 and 800? The 800 is loops (very soft, last 10,000 pulls, doesn’t stick as 400), the 400 is cut loops(lasts 1,000 pulls, tends to pill really affect sticking just appearance) -What is the ratio of hook to loop you need? (assuming a strip front and on the wings and maybe something to keep it closed I use about 3 loop per 1 hook also. - And for those of you who use it how do you keep it from everything in the wash with it? Attach extra loop next to the hook part to fold over the hook laundering. Jennifer D. Q. What’s the difference between Aplix 400 What kind of A. The loops are not rough, but not soft either. It attaches very well. tend to pill after time. This does not affect stickyness. The Aplix 800 has continuous loops. It is supposed to last up to pulls. The loops are soft. It attaches well, but not as well as This doesn’t pill. I have also seen diapers with the 800 wear out the Aplix. The loop part is the soft part of the Aplix that is generally on of a diaper or cover. The hook is the scratchy part generally on I think that the width is a preference thing. I like the 1″ The 1.5″ anything else. The 2″ is great for medium for covers. This is just my experience, YMMV. Jennifer D. Q. Where can I get the plastic snaps? A. fabric store. They Fastener The press is number is: 1800 224 6609 Ask for Oscar. I cancelled my order from them since I found (thanks Suzanne!) a one for like 60 dollars cheaper (including shipping) But they mistakenly sent it to me COD anyway. The total I had with from CA to WI was 140.00 egads..so glad I was able to get the one for a whopping 82.00 with shipping! Snaps and dies you get from Universal fasteners. Ask for Jerry, 562 921 1440 (does anyone else have the item numbers on the snaps? I dont have info very handy) You’ll need three dies for each of the snap parts (cap, socket, Tell jerry what the item number is on the snaps and he’ll send the correct dies. If you look around for another press other than the one at Supply, just make sure that the press can fit a 3/8 inch die information Jerry told me to look for in a press) My order from Universal for my dies and about 6 bags of snap came to 225.00 with shipping…much better than I was Back on the press thing…I know Fastener Supply has them in again since they screwed up and sent me one so you might want to this week before this new stock is all gone. Oscar told me they fast once he has them in. Good Luck! Carla << > my > info very handy) >> > I am still looking for the item numbers on these so I can > them… anyone? > > Sacha Here ya go Sacha.. Universal: K49-839 (socket) 562-921-1440 K50-839 (stud) K53-839 (bigger cap) K43 (smaller cap) dies for all of the above A. at Universal Fasteners (you need 3 dies, at $40 each), snap parts $15 for a bag of 1000 parts (two parts make 1/2 snap, stud or Sooooo, the initial investment is A LOT, but the snaps themselves couple cents each, so in the long run . . . if you’re using a lot (for WAHM dipes, for example), it *might* end up being economical have to make a lot of dipes! Jennifer Reed, The numbers Fasteners (562) 921-1440. Jennifer Reed |
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