Everyday many of the same questions are posted on the Sew Your Own Diapers e-mail list. These are just a few of the questions posted.
A big huge thanks to Sophie, a member of the Sew Your Own Diapers e-mail list, for creating this FAQ page!!
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about “super flannel” but where do you get it?
you can either just
or you can trace a favorite cloth or disposable diaper
models may have changed since then, but I’ve loved my little elna
time, and I’ve had very few problems. In fact, the only troubles
have cropped up in the last few months when I’m using it a LOT,
been “user induced”–that is, I haven’t cleaned it
thread, that sort of thing. It’s a simple little thing, but it
zigzag stitches, buttonholes, and all that I’ve needed up til
nine years later, I’m dreaming of fancy stitches, etc, but I’m
quite fine with my Elnita. 🙂
A. I’ve only heard good things about Elnas, too.
zigzag. I took it back and got another and had the
same problem. I saved up and finally got a great
does more and more neat stuff.
come flying off at me one night while sewing, I hadn’t TOUCHED
accused me of messing with it, but put it back together and that
did work right after that. It was a first for me, but I went out
another one, <stupid> and I regret it.
I also have a singer merritt machine, that I love, it has the
for fancy stitches, it was given to me, and it is probably a good
old, but its WONDERFUL! I also have a singer serger that is about
old, that I love dearly also. neither of those have given me any
considering the use I give them, and never geting them serviced,
enough good about singer, the only bad thing is their stores for
and general customer service usually bite big time.
I’ve heard good things about the Brother that walmart sells for
might try that one.
Japanese to me. The number one machine that I’m hearing about
is the Janome (Juh/no/me) which is also the New Home. It is made
in one place by its own company, nothing contracted out. I have
Elna myself that I simply love. Bernina, Pfaff, Viking, I think
about the same as Elna. I suggest you go to a shop or two or
your area and try them out and see which one feels best to you.
you know which model, search around for the best deal. Someone on
list, I can’t remember who, got hers off the internet. I would
recommend a machine that has an overlock stitch and three-step
Good luck shopping!
know any more. I can recommend Elna just from
personal experience. Mine is a basic model, Pro 4
Lock, no computer and it’s 12 years old and has NEVER
given me trouble and I’ve sewn everything on it!
What I like about it is:
It’s easy to thread.
Has a full 1/4″ seam.
Easy to clean and maintain.
Great performance record.
Now, I am following with great interest the troubles
of sergers that have recently come up on this list.
Take down brand names when you hear about problems and
avoid those machines.
I would recommend that you go the several dealers in
your area and let them show you all the different
models. Steer clear of department store brands. At
the dealer, don’t let them trash one brand just to
build their brand up. Each brand has pros and cons
and the top brands are all very similar. I would
compare Janome (NewHome), Elna, Viking, Phaff. As I
have heard from many sources, the Janome is the best
out there right now in sewing machines because of the
company’s structure and manufacturing methods. I
haven’t looked at any of their sergers myself because
I am so happy with mine, though.
As for a used one. Just make sure that it has a
warranty and sew like crazy with it during the
warranty time, it should be clean and recently
over-hauled before being put up for sale. If
something is going to go wrong, it will do so within a
short period of time, not counting normal wear and
tear. You may be able to get a good deal on a used
one because many sewers get one and don’t use it
because they are intimidated by it or just don’t
really sew much and got tired of it taking up space.
Little old ladies sometimes get them and then realize
they don’t want it.
tension problem I’m having is just my inexperience. It’s sooooo
thread and has a lot of stitches. My Elna is one of the only
there that will do the coverhem stitch without having to replace
or foot. That’s why I got it.
b) what your irritation threshold is.
I have a mid-range Babylock, and it’s excellent for what I want –
garmnet construction, and I also wanted to be able to do a rolled
flatlock. It’s manually threaded, but easy enough to thread that
consider it a major hassle – it takes me less time to thread from
than to tie on.
When I was buying, the dealer showed me the Babylock Imagine,
these cool air-jet threading things and automatic tension
she pointed out that really, the main difference was that it was
use, but didn’t do any more stitches or have a better stitch
the less-frills model I bought did.
I personally like doing things manually – I don’t mind threading
or playing with the tensions myself, so for me the extra $$$
worth it for convenience – but for others, it may be!
I would think being able to do knits and wovens would be pretty
and having a differential feed is pretty nice to help control
waviness in sewing knits.
Here’s a pretty good link with some info on what to think about
for a serger (you may have to cut and paste, it’s pretty long):
but you don’t need one. It looks best if you sew the diaper right
together and then turn it and topstitch. On the soaker I used to
straight stitch all the way around and then a zig zag all the way
Very time consuming!
shown on debi’s “dipe with aplix” page). even with just
you can use an overedge stitch if you don’t want to turn them.
really lousy that way, <SNIP> as for the soaker pad, zig
pinions seem to differ on how tight.
know the weight or price and was thinking of checking into it
think they only have white.
Here’s the URL: http://www.elizabethlee.com/index.htm
Hope this helps!
Suzanne (mommy to Jenna)
find in the stores. I have a receiving blanket I picked up for
that is really thick and soft.
appropriate for diapers. 🙂 For any fabric you’d like to try for
ask this: Is it 100% cotton? (or nearly so) Is it absorbent
me to waste my time on it? Will it hold up to every-other-day
hot water? If you can answer yes, then give it a try. Oh, and
Will it bleed its colours all over my other diapers? Obviously,
a yes, don’t use it. 🙂
layers and/or some terry or something with it to get some
use flannel and terry for my diapers; mainly because it’s readily
in different colors/prints.
about “super flannel” but where do you get it?
A. Wal-Mart. It comes in white, yellow, pink, blue
have windblock fleece which I use day or night.
A. Check this url:
There is really no need to. It is also not as soft feeling as the
stuff. It is squishy soft, but not buttery soft. I’d rather buy
cheaper fleece and double it than use the other, but the 200 sure
for a 1-layer nighttime cover.
I have NEVER had a leak with the 300 wt… it doesn’t even seem
It is a bit bulkier, but IMO well worth it. Sometimes Reid wears
I made as pants all by themselves (hence the name “Parka
the day if I am using that one.
The 200 wt IMO is for people that are wanting to change their
*whenever* they are wet, even if it is not a really sopping wet
not for those that want to get all the mileage they can out of a
think that it is awesome as I can tell when he wets as it lets
feels warm… I can tell right away when he goes, but have only
actual leak when he was in the johnny jump up (IE compressing the
the fleece). I guess technically from that description it is good
people that push the mileage too… but I don’t like *knowing*
a wet dipe in there without changing pronto. I can’t tell with
wt… can with the 200 wt although like I said it is not a leak,
a “heat” escaping.
on-line, try phoenix fabrics for a start,
not heard of those dipes losing their elastic’s
I use swimwear elastic myself and that stuff can last.
start and then sew with a smallish zig-zag (one zig, one zag).
tight and sew until you get to the second mark. Tack it down and
of the machine. Cut the elastic at this point. No waste!
Jennifer S. ~ Mom-o to: Joshua, Molly and Joseph.
the edge. Then I fold the fleece over so the elastic is now
then zig-zag it closed. Makes sort of a casing but covers the
fleece. If your fabric is cut nice and straight (no bumpy edges)
a nice clean-looking “casing.”
Jennifer S. ~ Mom-o to: Joshua, Molly and Joseph.
contrasting color on the tabs and front panels for reinforcement
if that’s actually necessary – probably not). I sewed the tabs
panels on, turned them and made casings for the elastic along the
back with the seam allowance. This did mean that the casing was
*outside* of the cover, which didn’t bother me since I was making
myself, and anyway I figured the smoothest side was towards the
getting annoying. I couldn’t cut things in even numbers, and even
little extra layer made it harder to sew. So I took it out and
flannel/2 terry. Works like a charm!
A. I prefer
for the soaker
to wait too long =) >>
she was great to work with. i need to get more from her!
Sarah, mom to Hanna 5-16-95 and Faith 2-21-99.
Another no here, go slow though.
-What is the difference between the 400 and 800?
The 800 is loops (very soft, last 10,000 pulls, doesn’t stick as
400), the 400 is cut loops(lasts 1,000 pulls, tends to pill
really affect sticking just appearance)
-What is the ratio of hook to loop you need? (assuming a strip
front and on the wings and maybe something to keep it closed
I use about 3 loop per 1 hook also.
– And for those of you who use it how do you keep it from
everything in the wash with it?
Attach extra loop next to the hook part to fold over the hook
What kind of
loops are not rough, but not soft either. It attaches very well.
tend to pill after time. This does not affect stickyness.
The Aplix 800 has continuous loops. It is supposed to last up to
pulls. The loops are soft. It attaches well, but not as well as
This doesn’t pill. I have also seen diapers with the 800 wear out
The loop part is the soft part of the Aplix that is generally on
of a diaper or cover. The hook is the scratchy part generally on
I think that the width is a preference thing. I like the 1″
The 1.5″ anything else. The 2″ is great for medium
for covers. This is just my experience, YMMV.
fabric store. They
The press is
number is: 1800 224 6609 Ask for Oscar.
I cancelled my order from them since I found (thanks Suzanne!) a
one for like 60 dollars cheaper (including shipping) But they
mistakenly sent it to me COD anyway. The total I had with
from CA to WI was 140.00 egads..so glad I was able to get the
one for a whopping 82.00 with shipping!
Snaps and dies you get from Universal fasteners. Ask for Jerry,
562 921 1440
(does anyone else have the item numbers on the snaps? I dont have
info very handy)
You’ll need three dies for each of the snap parts (cap, socket,
Tell jerry what the item number is on the snaps and he’ll send
the correct dies.
If you look around for another press other than the one at
Supply, just make sure that the press can fit a 3/8 inch die
information Jerry told me to look for in a press)
My order from Universal for my dies and about 6 bags of snap
came to 225.00 with shipping…much better than I was
Back on the press thing…I know Fastener Supply has them in
again since they screwed up and sent me one so you might want to
this week before this new stock is all gone. Oscar told me they
fast once he has them in.
> info very handy) >>
> I am still looking for the item numbers on these so I can
> them… anyone?
Here ya go Sacha..
Universal: K49-839 (socket)
562-921-1440 K50-839 (stud)
K53-839 (bigger cap)
K43 (smaller cap)
dies for all of the above
at Universal Fasteners (you need 3 dies, at $40 each), snap parts
$15 for a bag of 1000 parts (two parts make 1/2 snap, stud or
Sooooo, the initial investment is A LOT, but the snaps themselves
couple cents each, so in the long run . . . if you’re using a lot
(for WAHM dipes, for example), it *might* end up being economical
have to make a lot of dipes! 🙂
Fasteners (562) 921-1440.